JONATHAN HALLAM ARCHIVE: MARTIN MARGIELA 1997 - 2004
LA FEMME DE CABINE
Photography by JONATHAN HALLAM
Presented by HALEBOPP
The series of works by Jonathan Hallam presents photographic portraits taken of anonymous individuals involved with the house of Martin Margiela from 1997-2004 in Paris.
Jonathan Hallam is a British multidisciplinary artist working with photography, moving image, performance, and sculpture.
Hallam’s work is formed by the relationship he develops with his subjects which empowers the flow and direction of the work. He seeks to sensitively allow the underlying subconscious feelings of his subjects to express themselves, often leaving otherworldly impressions. Hallam’s methods are both constructive and impulsive with an unconstrained spontaneity as his source. He allows himself to explore his curiosity in many topics, materials and mediums. The collective output of his work twists and turns with an unwillingness to be categorised or defined.
For over 20 years, Hallam has included photographic works in publications including Purple magazine, A-magazine, Another magazine, Dazed and Confused and ID magazine. His work is also featured in three Martin Margiela retrospective exhibitions including Somerset House, Antwerp Academy, Palais Galliera and Musée des Arts Décoratifs, « Margiela, les années Hermès.
Inspired by the surrealists period in Paris in the 1920’s, the images are unique, and were created with withno negatives. Each photograph lives as a final piece of work. In 2004, Hallam was asked by Martin Margiela to recreate a series of portraits with this technique that embodied the spirit of the women of the house. It was in collaboration with A Magazine curated by Maison Martin Margiela.
“I started this series of experiments in photographic portraiture in Paris in 1997 in the 18th arrondissement. Working from my apartment, I built a makeshift darkroom in my bathroom. The original photographs were developed in tupperware containers and taken on a MPP 5x4 Micro-press camera from the 1950’s. This project began by taking portraits of friends. The process works by capturing the image directly onto photographic paper. Usually when you expose the paper directly, it develops into a negative image. Photographic paper has an iso of 1 which means that the exposures of these photographs range from ½ a second to 25 minutes. The chemical composition was obtained from an obsolete product circa1964 from the Belgium based photographic company AGFA which I found on a flea market in Mouscron, Belgium. I replicated the chemistry which converts a negative image into a positive photograph.” - Jonathan Hallam